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Barnebys Magazine

LatestEditor's picksTopics
Magazine/Watches & Timepieces/Who Wore the First Wristwatch?

Who Wore the First Wristwatch?

The wristwatch is a staple accessory today, but how did it come to be? Find out the history of the wearable timepiece here.

September 9, 2021Gritta von Toll
Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co., Art Deco ladies' wristwatch, platinum with diamonds, around 1922. Photo © Christie's (detail)

Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co., Art Deco ladies' wristwatch, platinum with diamonds, around 1922. Photo © Christie's (detail)

Many of the most sought-after wristwatches today were not originally developed as a status symbol, but for a specific purpose. Their sophisticated complications were to make life easier for pilots, divers, and even astronauts. At the time of their respective invention, men were the clear target group.

Related: Inner Beauty: The World of Watch Complications

However, it is not surprising that the first wristwatches were worn by women, who had been professionals for wearing decorative accessories on the wrist for centuries.

Unknown painter, Queen Elizabeth I of England, circa 1570s. Image in the public domain

The first detectable wristwatch in history is said to have belonged to Elizabeth I of England. This was presented to her in 1571 by her favorite Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. Nothing is known about the appearance of this watch, but it was called an “arm watch."

Related: A Growing Movement: The Rise of Vintage Watches

The Queen's wristwatch, however, had no influence on the subsequent development. Instead of bracelets as cases for small watches, another piece of jewelry took center stage: the ring watch. Ring watches also existed as early as the 16th century and became very popular from the 1750s. 

George Achard & Fils Geneve, ring watch with rubies, approx. 1780. Photo © Cortrie

On the trail of the world's first wristwatches, the next stop is Paris where the Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet founded his company in 1775. One of his most loyal customers became Queen Marie Antoinette, who owned several of his creations. The showpiece in the Queen's collection was to be a pocket watch with many complications, which was commissioned from Breguet in 1783 by Marie Antoinette's “special friend”, the Swedish Count Hans Axel von Fersen. Unfortunately, the clock wasn't finished until years after Marie Antoinette's execution.

Related: The 10 Most Expensive Watches Ever Auctioned

However, the fashion-conscious Marie Antoinette never owned a wristwatch. It was a member of the new ruling Bonaparte family who can boast of having worn the first real wristwatch.

Related: Top 10 Most Popular Watch Brands

Like Marie Antoinette, Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte's youngest sister, was an admirer of Breguet's creations and owned several of his watches. On June 8, 1810, in addition to a travel clock for 100 francs, she also commissioned a “watch with a repeating mechanism on a bracelet”, which was to cost a whopping 5,000 francs. 

Left: François Gérard or his workshop, Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples-Sicily, 1810-12, oil / canvas, 201.5 x 146.5 cm, private collection. Image in the public domain. Right: Breguet, "Reine de Naples" Ref. 8908A with Mondpahse, flat share with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, around 2010. Photo © Sotheby's

Perhaps the idea for this first wristwatch was inspired by an order placed four years earlier by Empress Joséphine with court jeweler Étienne Nitot. For her new daughter-in-law, Princess Auguste of Bavaria, Joséphine had a pair of bracelets made, one with a small calendar and the other with a small clock. Joséphine was not very popular in the Bonaparte family and Napoleon's sisters in particular tried to outdo their sister-in-law as often as possible.

Patek Philippe's wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz from 1868. Tiffany's Patek Philippe Watch Collection, in New York, on the opening day of her Patek Philippe watch store, April 26, 2008. Photo by Kamal Aboul-Hosn

But again the wristwatch did not prevail in popularity. The next development was made in 1868 by the Swiss company Patek Philippe. The first known wristwatch was commissioned to the Hungarian Countess Koscowicz, the appearance of which is known because it has still been preserved.

Related: 3 Lesser-Known Facts About Patek Philippe

As a result, jewelry watches for the female wrist became increasingly popular. Men, however, still preferred the pocket watch. With the increase in women in the labor market, more practical models that didn't cost a fortune came into circulation.

Men only became aware of the practical value of a wristwatch through sporting and military activities, from which brands like Rolex and TAG Heuer rose to fame. The fame of having worn the world's first wristwatch, however, is something that women can claim.

Discover more background stories in Barnebys Magazine!

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About the author

Gritta von Toll

Gritta von Toll is the German Editor at Barnebys Magazine. She completed studies in pre- and early history and archaeology, and since 2015, after a short detour into the world of advertising, she has worked at Barnebys, where she immerses herself in art history in order to bring bygone epochs closer to today's readers.

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Gritta von Toll

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