Since its foundation in 1837, the legendary brand Hermès has reached cult status in the luxury industry with its clothes, jewelry and, most importantly, its handbags.
Related: Hermès: A World of Leather and Silk
Few brands have managed to popularize their designs to the extent that Hermès has – from the iconic Kelly bag, a model first produced in 1935 and renamed after Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly in 1977, to the quintessential Birkin bag, inspired by the English actress Jane Birkin in 1984. Bags such as the Kelly and the Birkin now feature in every serious fashion collector’s closet across the globe. Returning an average 26% premium on their original retail price, Hermès’ luxury bags have also become valuable investment pieces.
Auctions have proven a great way for collectors to get their hands on their dream bag, and this is especially true for Hermès, whose controlled supply of products makes it anything but easy to purchase some of its most famous designs.
Related: It's Not a Bag, It's a Birkin: An Iconic Story
As the popularity of the brand grows bigger and wider, we sat down with Callum Charles, Catalogue Manager of the Designer Collection at Fellows, one of the UK's leading auction houses specializing in watches, jewelry, and fashion auctions. Callum gives us his expert insight into the world of Hermès, teaching us how to spot the difference between a real Hermès and a fake Hermès, and what makes the brand stand out.
Barnebys: What details should we look out for when examining a bag to determine its quality?
Callum Charles: The overall appearance is always a key indicator of how the bag in question is meant to look and feel. You should also look at the hardware that accompanies the bag. For example, has a branded zipper pull been used? It is also helpful to see any paperwork that may have come with the item.
What about Hermès in particular? What are the tell-tale signs that a Hermès bag is of good quality and real?
Hermès is renowned for its use of quality materials. The leather should be of exceptional quality, as you would expect from the brand. The use of Hermès trademark branding should also be immaculate where it is stamped onto the leather or hardware components. You should also look out for the presence of their saddle stitch method, which links the brand to its heritage.
Related: How to Spot a Fake Chanel Handbag
Do you need to have held many Hermès in your hands to be able to spot a fake?
There is a huge range of helpful information online documenting the signs of spotting counterfeit Hermès bags available. Nothing compares to seeing it in person, and in auction houses. We don’t sell anything we haven’t physically held, examined, and authenticated. All of our items are inspected by our specialist team.
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Are there any extras (e.g., documentation, stamps, packaging) that you should look out for if you want to purchase a vintage Hermès bag?
When purchasing a vintage item, you should always seek out as much information as possible. Whether you ask the auction house for a condition report, or extra photos, or go to view the item in person, you should satisfy yourself with its condition. Examining documentation, including receipts or anything linking the item to the brand, can be helpful as it creates a paper trail starting from the brand. It is also useful to note that these items are handmade, so minor imperfections can occur.
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This article was updated on May 1, 2024
