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Barnebys Magazine

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Magazine/Fashion & Vintage/Louis Vuitton: The Man Behind the Monogram

Louis Vuitton: The Man Behind the Monogram

Although Louis Vuitton is arguably the best known luxury fashion brand worldwide, few know the story of the man behind the monogram.

April 25, 2022
Louis Vuitton, 'Boite à Flacons', second half of the 20th century. Photo © Bukowskis (detail)

Louis Vuitton, 'Boite à Flacons', second half of the 20th century. Photo © Bukowskis (detail)

Louis Vuitton was born in 1821 in Charbouilla, near Anchay in the Jura Mountains in eastern France. His father was a miller and carpenter, who early on taught his son to handle various tools. His upbringing was very humble. After his mother died, his father remarried, and Louis sometimes came into conflict with his stepmother. He chose to leave home for Paris, 250 miles away. He went on foot and took odd jobs along the way in exchange for food and shelter, a trip that would take two years.

Louis Vuitton, suitcase, early 20th century, monogram canvas with brass coded corners and wooden slats and details in leather. Photo © Bukowskis

Once in the capital, he got a job with Romain Maréchal, who worked as a packer of trunks. Louis would stay at the job for 17 years, until he turned 33. The work involved helping clients who were going on a trip, something that only wealthy people did at this time. The packer would pack up all the clothes and items needed for travel.

Related: Vintage Luggage & Trunks: Where to Begin

In 1852, Napoleon III came to power through a coup, and this would provide a fantastic opportunity for Louis. Empress Eugenie appointed him as her personal packer, a job that opened many doors.

Louis Vuitton, label in suitcase, ca 1926. Photo © Uppsala Auktionskammare

Two years later, he married Clémence-Emile Pariaux and opened his own studio at Saint Lazare station and a shop on Rue Neuve des Capucines, near the Place Vendôme. The company was literally registered "Marque Louis Vuitton deposé" ("Registered Louis Vuitton brand"), with the addition "spécialité pour l'Emballage des Modes" ("Specializing in fashion packing"). From the very beginning, his name was thus linked with fashion and luxury, more specifically to haute couture. Louis was a neighbor and good friend of Charles Frederick Worth, the first fashion designer in the modern sense. Worth was in vogue and gained a growing rolodex of clients consisting of empresses, princesses, duchesses, acclaimed singers and famous actresses.

Related: The Story of the Trunk: From a Suitcase to a Treasure Chest of Memories

At this time, a society woman must change up to seven times a day. During a trip, each ensemble required two suitcases, so the orders piled up. Ahead of actress Sarah Bernhardt's tour of Brazil, Louis Vuitton made no less than 200 suitcases. Packing the expensive and delicate dresses was a painstaking job, and Louis' ambition was to make his suitcases functional, luxurious and innovative. 

Related: 5 Iconic Handbags and the Women Who Made Them Famous

Also as a businessman he had enormous talent as he foresaw the traveling market exploding thanks to a luxury-hungry bourgeoisie. The company grew so much so that the production of suitcases had to move to larger premises in Paris twice in five years.

Cover of Louis Vuitton's English Catalog 1901. Photo © Apic / Getty Images

But times were politically and socially troubled. France began to industrialize, and bankers and entrepreneurs increasingly dominated society. The steamboat, the steam locomotive and international tourism were new phenomena. Habits changed and new ideals were formed. Baron Haussmann had entire neighborhoods in Paris demolished to build new ones.

It was undoubtedly calmer in Asnières-sur-Seine, where Louis Vuitton established himself in 1859 with both the company and his family. Then it was a small quiet town in a rural setting, but is now considered a northwestern Paris suburb. He came here as a well-established and very successful man, but it was only now, at almost 40 years of age, that he could take the time to learn to read and write.

Related: The 8 Most Popular Fashion Brands

Everything stopped in 1870, when a war broke out between France and Prussia. The imperial couple were forced into exile, Paris was captured and a bloody civil war ensued. His staff was dispersed, tools stolen and the studio destroyed. However, he soon threw himself into the work again, and in just a few months, production restarted. He opened a new store on the beautiful rue Scribe in Paris. 

During the last 20 years of his life, he constantly further developed his suitcases, which were a great success at several world exhibitions. His name became known and synonymous with quality in ever wider circles. His son Georges took the initiative to develop the company internationally, and in 1855 the first store outside France was opened, on Oxford Street in London. Stores were later opened in New York and Philadelphia.

Related: The Eternal Appeal of Vintage Handbags

Some competitors copied Louis Vuitton's suitcases, so he switched from his original light gray fabric to one with red and beige stripes. This did not help much, as the competitors switched to the same fabric, with exactly the same kind of stripes. He made a drastic decision in 1888 to end the counterfeiting. He patented a checkered pattern with the text "Marque Louis Vuitton déposée", called Canvas Damier, which would become his trademark (yet now is one of the most counterfeited designs).

A bag with monogram canvas is manufactured in Louis Vuitton's workshop on February 4, 1999 in Asnières, France. Photo © François GOUDIER / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

In 1892, Louis Vuitton died at the age of 71. His children and grandchildren continued to lead the company. In 1959, his great-grandson Claude Vuitton developed a method that made the varnished cotton fabric softer to make monogrammed handbags, which became a great success. In the late 1970s, the brand was launched internationally, with great response in the United States and Japan. In 1984, the company merged with the champagne house Veuve Clicquot and the fashion houses Givenchy and Loewe to be listed on the stock exchange. Three years later, the company became part of the world's largest luxury group, LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët-Hennessy), which is controlled by financier Bernard Arnault. Many were skeptical when he hired an American, Marc Jacobs, as chief designer, who created a creative crusade in the studios.

Related: The Emerging Category of Rare Sneakers

In 1982, the iconic shoe model 'Nike Air Force 1' was designed. In conjunction with Louis Vuitton's 'Men's Spring-Summer 2022' show, Virgil Abloh partnered with Nike to design 47 pairs of custom Air Force 1. On February 9, 2022, 200 pairs were sold at Sotheby's. Photo © Sotheby's

The first clothing collection was presented, and soon the range was expanded with shoes, watches, jewelry, pens, books and most recently perfumes. For almost every year that has passed since then, the company has broken new profit records. For a long time, the brand has been ranked as one of the most prestigious in the luxury category with thousands of boutiques. In 2014, Marc Jacobs left after 16 fabulous years as creative director, and was succeeded by the Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquière.

Related: It’s in The Bag: The Handbag Collectors’ Market

Over time, Louis Vuitton has made several successful collaborations with artists and companies. One of the most famous collaborations was with Jeff Koons, who in the spring of 2017 released a collection of Louis Vuitton with Koons' reproductions of works by famous artists. The collaboration was a success and already in the autumn of the same year the second edition was released, this time with works by artists like Monet, Turner, Gauguin and Boucher.

'Monogram Malle Courrier Trunk 90', Louis Vuitton x Supreme. Photo © Phillips

Another successful collaboration was Supreme x Louis Vuitton. Together with the streetwear giant, Louis Vuitton released a huge collection with everything from suitcases and bags to jackets, denim, pajamas, sweatshirts, t-shirts and shoes. Today, items from the collection are sold for high prices at auction houses around the world.

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Every year, Forbes ranks the world's most valuable company, and Louis Vuitton is at the top of the luxury brands. The entire LVMH group consists of 70 companies in the luxury industry with approximately 134,000 employees. In Paris, in the autumn of 2017, an enormous flagship store was opened on Place Vendôme, very close to the address where Louis Vuitton once started his company in 1854.

The Fondation Louis Vuitton Art Museum was designed by architect Frank Gehry and inaugurated on October 20, 2014. Photo © Iwan Baan / CC BY 2.0

In 2014, the owner of LVMH Bernard Arnault and President Hollande inaugurated a spectacular private museum on the outskirts of Paris, named the Fondation Louis Vuitton, forever associating the humble miller's son with not only global fashion, but also the future of contemporary art.

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