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Barnebys Magazine

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Magazine/Jewelry & Gems/Historical Jewelry and Watches Glitter at Auction

Historical Jewelry and Watches Glitter at Auction

Discover iconic pieces from Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Patek Philippe, Tiffany and more.

August 12, 2022
Article sponsored byHess Fine Auctions
Image © Hess Fine Auctions (detail)

Image © Hess Fine Auctions (detail)

Close out summer with a stylish new piece of jewelry or timepiece! On August 20, Hess Fine Auctions will auction pocket watches, wrist watches and fine jewelry from top designers and brands. Here are a few of the highlights not miss, from a Tiffany & Co-made war medal and a Damien Hirst bracelet to iconic Van Cleef and Patek Philippe wristwatch models. 

Signed Damien Hirst 18k Gold Pharmaceutical Pills Charm Bracelet w/ Diamond Pave Skull in Box. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

This signed Damien Hirst 18k gold charm bracelet features 15 pharmaceutical pill charms along with a charm hang tag with signature, a capsule shaped toggle clasp, plus Hirst's iconic diamond encrusted skull. This limited design was executed in 2013-14 and this piece is number 8 from an edition of 50. It's in terrific condition and comes in its original box.

Cartier Onyx Emerald Eye Diamond Panther in 18k White Gold Bracelet. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

Here's an iconic Cartier panther bracelet made in heavy 18k white gold and encrusted with approx. 4.5-5.0ctw of E-F color, VS (or better) clarity diamonds. The famous Cartier panther reclines along the top of the wrist, embellished with a black onyx collar and a glowing green emerald eye. A sturdy panther link bracelet in solid white gold with diamonds completes the piece, with a hidden clasp that flows with the design.

Van Cleef Arpels 18k Gold Diamond Alhambra Ladies Watch. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

Just as Cartier is associated with the panther, Van Cleef & Arpels is best known for their four-leaf clover design (the Alhambra). This ladies Alhambra watch has an 18k gold crown and mother-of-pearl dial in the clover shape and is studded with round diamonds, all on a dark blue satin bracelet.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3900/1 18k Gold Mens Working Wrist Watch. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

For men, a top watch highlight is this Patek Philippe Nautilus 3900/1 in 18k gold. The Nautilus is one of the Swiss brand's most iconic models and was first introduced in 1976.

Tiffany Heavy 18K/24K Gold Medal for War Hero/Tiffany VP Harry Hayden Treadwell. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

This Tiffany and Co. 18k and 24k gold war medal with white clean Old Euro diamonds was presented to Lt. Colonel Harry Hayden Treadwell, a long-time employee of Tiffany & Co. The back of the medal reads, "Presented to Lieutenant Colonel Harry Hayden Treadwell BREVET COLONEL by the Twenty-second Regiment for faithful and meritorious service for twenty-five years.” The top bar of the medal is 18k; the bottom piece tests as 24k.

At age 15, Treadwell obtained a job as cashboy with Tiffany. He may have been given the job with the help of his father's cousin, Henry Ressique Treadwell, who is said to be a co-founder of Tiffany. He worked with Tiffany & Co. for 57 years, working up to secretary, assistant treasurer, and manager of Tiffany NYC. He worked until two days before his death. Treadwell served as lieutenant colonel in the New York National Guard and aide de camp for Theodore Roosevelt as governor of New York State. In 1898, he served in the U.S. Army as adjutant with rank of captain in the 22nd Regt. N.G.S.N.Y, New York City. At the close of the war with Spain, he was unanimously elected lieutenant colonel, having served in that regiment 21 consecutive years.

Rare Large Gold In Quartz Matchsafe. Image © Hess Fine Auctions

This matchsafe (an ornamental matchbox) is possibly from the Panama Pacific Exposition. The owner, Mr. Zachau, was apparently a railroad baron of sorts, having held a position in one of the western railroads. His family was also involved heavily in the mining industry in Nevada and California. He is listed in late 19th and early 20th century literature as having lived in Reno Nevada, Arizona and California during the gold rush. The matchsafe is extremely rare having very large panels of gold in quartz inlaid and depicting the San Francisco bay area skyline without the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. It was potentially made for The Panama Pacific worlds fair based on knowledge and past experience and also the date range that Zachau was in the San Francisco area.

Rare Large Gold In Quartz Matchsafe (reverse). Image © Hess Fine Auctions

Gold-bearing quartz is found underground in only a few locations around the world by hard rock miners. Most of the worlds production comes from mines in Northern California. Natural veins of gold were formed millions of years ago by hydrothermal pressure deep within the earth. When the quartz contains a gold dispersion, the mined stones are cut into slabs and then hand cut into gems used for jewelry. The colors of quartz can vary, sometimes containing other minerals as well, but the pearl white is most desirable for jewelry design.

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Article sponsored byHess Fine Auctions
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