Since Cartier introduced the Tank watch to its repertoire in 1919, the model has achieved icon status and become a symbol of style and sophistication. Although today the model is described as timeless and elegant, it was groundbreakingly modern when it was first created. Louis Cartier, son of the jewel house's founder Louis-Francois Cartier, was inspired by World War I armored cars when he designed the watch, hence the name Tank. A century later, the watch is also associated with the famous wrists it encircled, from Andy Warhol and Muhammad Ali to Princess Diana and Jackie Kennedy.
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When he saw an aerial photograph of the French army's new armored vehicles, Louis Cartier got the idea for the model's rectangular dial. The two wider bands that surround the dial are believed to be the tank's caterpillar tracks seen from above. The armored cars were designed by Renault and were the epitome of French engineering. It was the spirit of that precision and technology that Cartier wanted to capture in this new wristwatch for the modern man.
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Everything about the design was innovative. At the time, most wristwatches were round and only worn by women. The Tank was created for both genders. The model weighed less than previous watches and introduced a streamlined expression. The blue details, in the form of the hands and the small sapphire on the side of the dial, also underlined the daring Art Deco look.
The Tank is still so legendary and desirable thanks to all the colorful personalities who have worn it over the years. In the first decades after its launch, interest in the watch cooled somewhat, until 1963 when style icon Jackie Kennedy was seen wearing it.
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Jackie Kennedy was celebrated for her sophisticated taste and has gone down in history as one of America's most significant fashion icons. Her look exuded a new kind of elegance that was younger and more modern than that of the European aristocracy. However, she liked to wear European brands such as Chanel, Gucci and of course Cartier. As she preferred straight lines and more minimalist silhouettes, the Tank watch suited her perfectly.
She received her watch as a gift from her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw Radziwill, who at the time was married to her sister Lee. The gift celebrated her completion of an 80km walk in Palm Beach, an initiative set up by her husband to promote sports. On the back of the watch, Stanislaw had "Stas to Jackie / 23 Feb. 63 / 2:05 AM to 9:35 PM" engraved in his own handwriting. Jackie wore the watch for the rest of her life, and in 2017 it was auctioned at Christie's in New York where it sold for $379,500 to Kim Kardashian.
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In the early 1970s, Cartier modernized the design and introduced the Tank Must which was battery powered. When other brands experienced a decline in demand for exclusive models, Cartier's new edition became a success. During the decade marked by disco and flair, the Tank was one of the most desirable accessories and was worn by models, cultural figures and socialites.
Fascinated by celebrity and trends, pop artist Andy Warhol quickly acquired a Tank. He was often photographed with his watch and claimed that it didn't even tell the time, but that he wore it simply because "it is the watch to wear."
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Another style icon who was often photographed with a Tank around her wrist was Princess Diana. After her divorce from Prince Charles, her silhouette became increasingly sharper, and her so-called revenge look came to make a big impression in fashion history. She got rid of the frills, lace and the flowy skirts of her youth. Now she chose to show off her figure in tailored suits and flattering coats. Like Jackie Kennedy, she preferred French and Italian fashion designers and was good friends with Gianni Versace.
During her marriage to Prince Charles, she wore a more traditional Patek Philippe gold watch given to her as a birthday gift, but after the separation she preferred her Tank. She also had two models: one with a black leather strap given to her by her father and a gold Tank Francaise. Today, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, has inherited the latter.
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The Tank model is still popular today, and as it does not go for the same staggering prices at auction (yet!) as models from Rolex or Patek Philippe, it is considered a good investment. Even if demand is increasing, it is still relatively affordable compared to Swiss-made luxury watches, with prices for older editions starting in the hundreds or low thousands.
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Many have tried to emulate the Tank silhouette over the years, but its design manages to strike a balance between a modern look and classic elegance. Furthermore, it is neither particularly masculine nor feminine and is also discreet. Perhaps the great secret of the Tank watch is that, rather than drawing attention, it enhances the person wearing it.
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Article written by Victor Schagerlund
