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Barnebys Magazine

LatestEditor's picksTopics
Magazine/Jewelry/The Surprising Inspiration for the Cartier Love Bracelet

The Surprising Inspiration for the Cartier Love Bracelet

For decades, it has been the ultimate symbol of eternal love. But who is behind the iconic design and what was their inspiration?

July 29, 2020Ulrika Nilsson
Gary Bernstein's photograph of Aldo Cipullo's 'Love Bracelet' (detail). Photo via Wikimedia Commons

Gary Bernstein's photograph of Aldo Cipullo's 'Love Bracelet' (detail). Photo via Wikimedia Commons

Since the late 1960s, the Cartier Love Bracelet has been an iconic piece of jewelry, representing infinite love. The bracelet has been popular among stars from Elizabeth Taylor and Steve McQueen to Kylie Jenner, but also with Barnebys users. Here is the story of Cartier's iconic bracelet.

The creator behind the Cartier Love Bracelet bracelet was the Italian jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo (1936-1984). Even as a young man, he was surrounded by design because his father worked on creating costumes and jewelry in his hometown of Naples.

Related: Cartier: A Love Affair

The Italian jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo, November 17, 1973. Photo: Richard Gummere / New York Post Archives / (c) NYP Holdings, Inc. via Getty Images

When Cipullo was in his twenties, he immigrated to the United States to realize his own dreams of designing jewelry. After a few years of studying at the School of Visual Arts in New York City, he began working at Tiffany & Co. and then David Webb. In 1969, the same year he started working at Cartier, he had his big breakthrough when he designed the Cartier Love Bracelet. 

For the bracelet, Cipullo drew inspiration from the Middle Ages and the chastity belt. He made a modern interpretation of the object and since the chastity belt was the medieval symbol of purity and loyalty, Cipullo created the bracelet to show a couple's fidelity in a contemporary way.

Related: The 9 Most Popular Jewelry Brands

Cartier Love Bracelet was launched in 1969 and was created by the Italian jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo. Photo: Bukowskis

A hallmark of the bracelet is the special locking mechanism that makes the bracelet impossible to remove. Unlike other bracelets, which can be taken on and off easily, the lock has been made in a way that requires a screwdriver to open it. The screwdriver is meant to be held by one's partner who is the only one who can open up the bracelet, as if they are holding the key to their heart.

The Love Bracelet quickly became popular to wear because it showed that the wearer was "locked in love". Cipullo once said, “What modern people want are love symbols that are locked semi-permanently or that are at least difficult to remove. After all, love symbols should show infinity.”

The bracelet also revolutionized the way people wore their jewelry. At the time the Love Bracelet was launched, it was common to choose jewelry based on the clothes one wore. Now, because of the elegant simplicity of the design, a piece of exclusive jewelry could be paired with any outfit.

Related: Top 8: The Art of the Kiss

Upon the launch of the collection, Cartier sent the bracelet to 25 famous couples, such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Nancy and Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Dyan Cannon, and Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen. When the public saw these stars carry the bracelet, demand increased, but Cartier had a policy that the Love Bracelet could only be purchased as a gift.

Cufflinks, necklaces, earrings and ring from the Cartier Love collection. Photos via Barnebys price bank

The original version of the Love Bracelet was made in gilded silver, but over the years it was made in other materials such as yellow, white and pink gold and with diamonds. Since 1969, the Love collection has expanded and now, in addition to the bracelet, there are earrings, rings, charms and cufflinks. The design has undoubtedly become one of Cartier's hallmarks and a popular collector's item. 

When Love Bracelet was launched in 1969, it cost about $250, which is just over $1,700 dollars in today's value. Today it can be found at auction for anywhere between $300 to $50,000.

A Love Bracelet in 18k pink gold with diamonds was sold at Sotheby's 2016 for $35,000. Photo: Sotheby's via Barnebys price bank

The downside to the bracelet's popularity is that it has led to several counterfeit designs. For a time, Cartier had to label every bracelet that was then stored at Cartier headquarters to prove the authenticity of the jewelry. 

The Love Bracelet was Aldo Cipullo's first design and his big breakthrough. Over the years, he continued to surprise with his innovation and creativity, including the Juste un Clou collection, which includes the iconic bracelet that encircles the wrist in the form of a large nail. 

Aldo Cipullo's bracelet 'Juste un Clou' was designed for Cartier. Photo: Christie's via Barnebys price bank

It is said that hospitals in New York had to have the special screwdriver in place to be able to remove the Love Bracelet on patients. The bracelet has also become notorious at airports and is called "the most problematic object" as it is difficult to remove the bracelet at security checks. 

Find more articles about jewelry at Barnebys Magazine

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About the author

Ulrika Nilsson

Ulrika Nilsson is the Swedish Editor at Barnebys Magazine. She is an art historian with a bachelor in art history and visual studies. She has a great interest in modern design and architecture, especially simple wooden furniture, colorful textile art and Swedish functionalism. At auction she looks for Isamu Noguchi's Akari lamps, Aino Aalto's Bölgeblick glass series and Ann-Mari Forsberg's fabric Blue Crocus.

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Ulrika Nilsson

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