To understand more about the wonderful world of vintage accessories and jewelry, we interviewed Valerie Hammond, a dealer in fine antiques and vintage jewelry and accessories since the 1980s.
Barnebys: What initially drew you to specialise in vintage jewelry and accessories?
Valerie Hammond: I have been buying and selling antiques and vintage items for over 40 years, including home decor, furniture, art, and objets d'art from the Victorian to Art Deco eras. This naturally included jewelry and accessories, which I have always had a passion for—I never feel fully dressed if I leave the house without my earrings! In recent decades, we've seen a growing demand for accessories, particularly fine costume jewelry, so we expanded our inventory accordingly.
Jewelry is like the spice in a recipe; any outfit can be stylish, but the right piece of jewelry "brings out the flavour." The variety in vintage jewelry is enormous, eclectic, colorful, beautiful, affordable, and fun.
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As a dealer, what are some of your favourite pieces you’ve come across, and what are you currently on the lookout for?
It isn't easy to pick specific pieces because they are all so different. Certain designers, however, stand out. A Karl Lagerfeld dragonfly brooch is one of my all-time favorites due to its composition and the stones used. Miriam Haskell and Stanley Hagler's designs are deliciously intricate and over-the-top elegant.
We also carry a full line of vintage sterling silver jewelry. Early Taxco (Mexican) jewelry shouldn't be overlooked—many people judge it by what they see in flea markets, but finely crafted Mexican silver jewelry is some of the best in the world. Designers like Margot DeTaxco, William Spratling, Los Castillos, and even unsigned but hallmarked pieces can be stunning and beautifully made. Inlay items with obsidian, onyx, malachite, etc., are particularly striking.
I love figural brooches and large rhinestone pieces with lots of color. I'm always searching for something I haven't seen before, not necessarily by designer but for design and visual impact. Signed jewelry is always a bonus, but there are millions of fabulous unsigned pieces with the same aesthetics.
I also enjoy searching for specific items for clients, such as brooches in the shape of painters' easels, palettes, brushes, and more. The thrill of finding the perfect item is incredibly rewarding.
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What are some emerging trends you’ve observed in the vintage jewelry and accessories market?
Styles have changed dramatically since the new millennium. It's hard to believe that items from the late 1990s and early 2000s are now considered vintage. Some accessories, like pashminas, aren't in high demand anymore, but scarves remain important. Within this category, trends have shifted from paisley and neutral colors to mid-century modern abstracts and geometric designs in bold, vibrant colors. This trend has become especially noticeable since COVID-19, as people emerged from lockdowns craving color and flair, similar to the post-war years.
Two notable trends in the vintage world are more men wearing brooches on their jackets and suit lapels, and the popularity of layering multiple pieces—two or more brooches, layers of chains or bracelets, mixing and matching. Vintage costume jewelry charm bracelets and more affordable contemporary designer bags are also trending. It's always a good idea to explore local charity shops, markets, and auctions for treasures and hidden gems. A vintage bag is a perfect accessory.
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Costume jewelry is fun and can enhance any outfit. Many celebrities and stars wear vintage costume jewelry, increasing its popularity enormously. In 2019, we worked with costume designer Luis Sequiera on Guillermo Del Toro's Oscar-nominated movie Nightmare Alley, where our vintage costume jewelry was featured. Stars and supporting cast wore pieces that looked like diamonds and pearls. Similarly, Dame Edna, portrayed by Barry Humphries, wore our jewellery, and two of our necklaces were purchased for the Keanu Reeves mini-series Rain.
Related: Designer Costume Jewellery: The Favourite Accessory
Television programs like Downton Abbey and Bridgerton have introduced younger viewers to the world of vintage clothing and opulent jewelry, expanding the market base. The demand for vintage fashion and accessories, especially costume jewelry, is the fastest-growing segment in the antique and vintage markets. Many dealers have evolved from focusing solely on antiques to including vintage and costume jewellery in their inventories. The market has expanded with new interest, so it's a good idea to buy the items you love when you see them!
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Val Hammond has been an antique and vintage jewelry dealer since 1985. She develops courses and does guest speaking across Ontario, Canada, and conducts interactive workshops on antiques and collectables for organisations, clubs and libraries. She is a contributing writer to numerous antique journals, is an online appraiser and supplies props and jewellery for television commercials and film. Val was also the Poet Laureate for the city of North York, Ontario from 1981-83, and the first female Poet Laureate in Canada.
