Wonderful Art Deco Platinum Brooch with Large Navette-Cut Diamond, c. 1925

The 1920s brought a new design language to the world of jewellery with Art Deco. Geometric abstractions, precious materials and luxurious fittings defined the taste of the time and were implemented just as masterfully by goldsmiths in Paris, London and Vienna as by their colleagues in Berlin and overseas. The so-called white jewels were particularly popular - pieces of jewellery that combined diamonds with platinum or white gold and thus radiated a crystalline, cool elegance. If you look at the jewelry designs of those years, you come across one shape again and again: the elongated oval or shield. It corresponded to the era's preference for graphic clarity and two-dimensional design. Instead of sculptural ornaments, fine lines, geometric structures and virtuoso processing techniques such as milgrains or shadow gaps were preferred, which drew their effect primarily from the play of light and shadow. At the same time, new diamond shapes came into fashion, which were the epitome of luxury - after all, perfect special shapes meant a considerable loss of cut compared to the cushion-cut diamonds that were still common in the 19th century. The present brooch demonstrates these design principles in a particularly impressive way. Its strict oval basic shape is enlivened by floral, expressionist motifs set with a total of 70 octagonal-cut diamonds. At the center of the design is an exceptionally beautiful navette-cut diamond weighing around 1.85 carats, whose lively radiance holds the composition together. The brooch was made from solid platinum. This precious metal was considered extremely exclusive in the 1920s, as it still is today. Its processing presented even experienced goldsmiths with challenges, and at the same time it was significantly more expensive than gold. This is precisely why it was preferred for the highest quality pieces of jewellery of its time. Every detail of this brooch points to its creation in the Art Deco period. It is in an excellent state of preservation and was only supplemented with an additional pin safety device at a later date. We discovered this extraordinary piece of jewellery in Frankfurt am Main.

Estimate:$30,340.19

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