Vintage White Gold Bracelet with Diamonds in White Gold, c. 1973

Gold chains and bracelets come in various shapes and patterns. A classic design that was already popular in the 19th century is the curb chain: Originally, curb chains were used for pocket watches, watch chains, and heavy necklaces. The links are flattened and twisted so that the chain lies flat. Here we see a unique, modern variation on this design. The links of this solid bracelet are crafted from 18-karat white gold and are also set with sparkling diamonds. A total of 126 single cut diamonds, totaling approximately 1.90 ct, are set here. Chains of this type are called Miami Cuban Link Chain in the U.S. After the Cuban Revolution of 1959, many Cubans emigrated, particularly to South Florida. There, in the 1970s, they developed their own jewelry culture, the most distinctive feature of which was particularly heavy and densely woven chain links. In the 1980s, these chains became popular in hip-hop culture. Artists such as Slick Rick, LL Cool J, and Run-D.M.C. almost never performed without these chains: gold jewelry was a form of self-assertion intended to showcase the social advancement they had achieved, not least through their music. In the years that followed, the diamond-set Miami Cuban Link was also adopted by the fashion world—by Tiffany, Cartier, and Jacob & Co.—and has since been worn by more than just musicians: it has become part of contemporary jewelry culture. This piece of jewellery weighs a total of 44.6 grams and was crafted at the Nicoli-Scola workshop in Vicenza. We discovered it in Munich, and our goldsmiths have recently restored it. An engraving indicates that it was given as a gift in 1973.

Estimate:$6,666.85

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