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All auctions / Jewelry & Gems / Precious "Collier-de-Chien" From an Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Clip


When we discovered this magnificent necklace in Switzerland, we were immediately impressed by the beautiful materials and its elegant, cool look. Ten rows of shimmering Akoya pearls hold a curved platinum ornament set all over with diamonds. In the middle of the rich diamond setting, the goldsmith has created a blossoming branch using the finest hand-cut joints. It bears three blossoms, one of diamonds, one of natural pearls and one of three untreated rubies from Burma. This precious showpiece speaks the luxurious design language of French Art Deco; Cartier, for example, has very similar bracelets that show plant shapes in a flat diamond pavé with sawn joints. The cool, elegant colour scheme of red and white tones is also typical of the years around 1930. The showpiece was actually created during this period, and as it bears French goldsmith's marks, it is also certain that it is French. The broad strands of pearls with the white gold bars and clasp were added later. In fact, the showpiece with the gemstones was probably originally a clip, the type of brooch that is so typical of Art Deco. In later decades, the clip fell out of fashion a little and so it was probably reworked into the necklace. We think that this happened in the years around 1980. In keeping with the high quality of the clip, equally high-quality materials were used for the necklace: The Akoya pearls are very uniformly round and of a beautiful, creamy white colour with a slight pink overlay. The bars and clasp are made of high-carat white gold and the clasp is also set with old diamonds dating back to the early 19th century. We have commissioned an independent expert opinion on the materials and in particular on the Burma rubies. It is enclosed with this wonderful necklace.
Estimate:$29,789.17
To the auctionView all items fromHofer AntikschmuckorJewelry & Gems
Estimate:
$29,789.17
KAIJA AARIKKA (FINLAND, 1929-2014). Armband, silver, Finland, 1900-talets
10/06/2026
$111.51
Est: $99.61
HÄNGE, 18K VITGULD & LITEN VIT STEN, TOTALT CIRKA 0,4 GRAM.
10/06/2026
$30
Est: $59.76
HALSKEDJA MED HÄNGE, 15K GULD, HALVPÄRLOR & TURKOSER, 1900-TALETS
10/06/2026
$350.04
Est: $398.45
HÄNGE MED KEDJA, 18 K guld med korsslipad sten, Guldvaruhuset, Stockholm, 1955.
10/06/2026

$401.04
Est: $398.45

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