Marvellous Diamond & Coloured Stone Brooch With "Mystery Setting", c. 1985

A cheer went through the jewellery scene when the Parisian jewellery manufacturer Van Cleef & Arpels presented a new type of gemstone setting in the winter of 1933, which immediately became a “must-have” among society ladies. This refers to the “invisible setting,” which, due to its astonishing appearance, is also called “Serti Mysterieux” or “Mystery Setting.” This technique involves precisely cut, calibrated gemstones being set into a channel setting that is invisible from above, so that no metal is visible between the stones. In this way, large, even curved surfaces can be created entirely from gemstones. The jewellery piece appears as if it were covered in gemstones. It is easy to understand that this technique is extraordinarily complex to produce: each piece of jewellery requires an immense amount of time, often several hundred hours of work. This technique is now masterfully demonstrated in the luxurious brooch before us, dating from the 1980s, in the shape of two colourful parrots. A multitude of exquisite gemstones—red rubies, blue and yellow sapphires, and tsavorites—are set in this mysterious technique. Only thin gold outlines enhance the impression of a sparkling plumage, allowing nothing but pure colour to radiate from the countless facets of the gemstones. Thirty-two brilliant-cut diamonds further enhance the design, forming the birds’ heads. Perched playfully on a curved gold branch, the beautiful birds appear to be up to some mischief! With its playful design and vibrant colours, this brooch is a true eye-catcher and an exceptionally high-quality piece of jewellery from the 1980s, which will continue to draw attention today. A conversation piece of the highest order!

Estimate:$15,721.12

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