Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Necklace in Silver on Gold, c. 1895

This necklace tells of brightly lit rooms, crackling silk, and champagne coupes, of the glittering balls of a bygone era – in a roundelay of midnight blue sapphires and diamond bows, it makes us dream of the Belle Époque, a time dedicated to the celebration of beauty. Between the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and the beginning of the First World War in 1914, peace prevailed in Europe, and this peace and a financially strong bourgeoisie led to a flourishing luxury sector. More jewellery was made in those years than ever before. The quality of jewellery also increased, and the most beautiful designs of those years were created with a view to providing a suitable setting for particularly precious coloured stones. Eleven impressive sapphires of an incomparable colour inspired the creation of this necklace. They are characterized by a radiant blue, at once deep and luminous. They are arranged in graduation so that the largest stone of around 3.05 ct rests on the décolleté, while the smallest ones adorn the back of the neck. The clasp disappears discreetly beneath one of them, so that nothing disturbs the flow of over twenty carats of precious sapphires. Each of the sapphires is surrounded by a ring of old-cut diamonds, which further intensify the blue colour in contrast and accompany it with a firework of light reflections. Elegant, three-dimensional loops are set between the sapphires in their diamond entourages. These are also set with diamonds and lovingly detailed with small engravings on the back, which imitate the folds of the fabric. The diamonds are arranged so lightly, so naturally, almost discreetly in their supporting and yet so important secondary role, that it is hard to believe that 12.30 ct of fine diamonds are shining here. The immense material value of the necklace makes it clear that the piece must have once belonged to a high-ranking person, perhaps the wife of a successful industrialist or the daughter of a noble family. A lady of the Belle Époque usually came into possession of important jewels at her wedding, as it was customary in those years to give the bride precious jewellery. Opulent pearl or diamond necklaces were usually a gift from the bride's parents or groom. These jewels were not only intended to delight the bride, but were also part of a married lady's necessary accoutrements: in high circles, it would have been unthinkable to attend a ball, the opera or an elegant evening reception without precious diamond and gemstone jewellery. We discovered this beautiful necklace in France. Small hallmarks on the clasp prove that it was imported to France after 1994. It was most probably made in Germany.

Estimate:$111,150.48

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