Magnificent Georgian Cross Pattée with 15.10 ct Rose Cut Diamonds

A glistening sea of light reflections shines out at us from this piece of jewellery. There are 138 rose cut diamonds that sparkle and shine in foil settings. Together, they weigh an impressive 15.10 ct. The piece is all the more impressive when we consider that diamonds were much rarer and therefore more precious in the early 19th century than they were towards the end of the century, after a veritable diamond fashion had broken out with the discovery of South African deposits. Only the very highest social classes were initially able to acquire diamond jewellery. It is therefore not surprising that the large pattée crosses set with diamonds (also known as Maltese crosses), which were popular in Great Britain at the beginning of the 19th century, are often mentioned in the context of the high nobility. Such diamond crosses can be found, for instance, in the crown made for the British King George IV in 1820, the George IV State Diadem, which is still worn by Queen Camilla today. But they were also worn as individual ornaments, usually as pendants, together with the great high jewellery of the noblewomen. The Duchess of Roxborough wore a „Maltese cross of diamonds, suspended from a row of large pearls“ for her wedding in 1806, along with pearl earrings and bracelets. Her ensemble was captured in a fashion engraving, see the last illustration. Another English fashion report from 1810 also shows us what the lady of the world, who was committed to the latest fashion, could wear to court:"A lilac sarsnet train and petticoat, covered with silver net lace; the drapery of white crape, tastefully looped up in a bow with diamonds on the left side... the headdress a bandeau of diamonds, with a rich plame of white and lilac feathers; diamond hoop earrings, diamond necklace, with Maltese cross; bracelets of diamonds; white kid gloves; slippers of white satin". Our cross was probably created in Britain. However, we discovered it in Vienna. In the early 20th century, when pieces of jewellery from the early 19th century were collected and worn as antiques, it was probably reworked from a pendant into a brooch. At that time, a fold-out eyelet was also added, for which a suitable pendant bail can be made. Please do not hesitate to contact us. Comparative pieces are illustrated in Ginny Reddington Dawes & Olivia Collings, Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830 (Woodbridge 2007), p. 26 and p. 82. The quotations from [Anon.], 'Fashions for October, 1806', La Belle Assemblée,September 1, 1806, no. p. (p. 441) and [Anon.], 'Fashions for July, 1810', La Belle Assemblée, June 1, 1810, p. 293.

Estimate:$31,374.77

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