Magnificent Amethyst Demi-Parure of Earrings and Brooch, Paris, c. 1875

Deep purple, luminous amethysts, creamy white, shimmering pearls, and warm, gleaming gold transport us to a summer day that never ends. This jewelry set—consisting of a brooch and earrings, known as a “demi-parure”—captured that summer some 150 years ago—and has preserved it to this day in all its unaltered splendor. At the heart of the design are five round-faceted amethysts. Each of these exceptionally high-quality, deep-violet stones features, at its center—in a recess carved into the stone—a gold flower set with a pearl. Surrounding the flowers, the cut features reflective facets: the concept of the flower is echoed here by the amethyst’s cut and further enhanced. The amethysts are framed by wide, mirror-polished settings, which are adorned with additional, intricately textured flowers and a cord wrapped around the setting. All components are handcrafted from high-karat gold. Through the use of various surface finishes, the goldsmith has not only achieved a varied aesthetic but has also created an extraordinary abundance of different light reflections. The set embodies the opulent design language of 1870s historicism. It combines elements of various styles—including Naturalism and the Archaeological style—to create something entirely unique and new. The hallmarks on all pieces indicate that the set was crafted in Paris for export abroad: a beautiful example of Parisian fashion’s leading role as early as the 19th century.

Estimate:$5,260.91

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