Large Early Victorian Brooch with Shell Cameo & Locket Compartment, c. 1850

This brooch is remarkable for its unusual motif: instead of the typical portrait of a lady or depiction of an ancient deity carved from a shell cameo, it depicts a small narrative scene: A charming putto has raised a hammer and is chiseling at the bust of a beautiful lady resting on a pedestal. The putto is clad only in a loincloth, and a bouquet of blooming flowers can be seen behind him. The scene stands out strikingly against the dark background in the white limestone layer of the shell. The cameo was likely a token of love, for its message is as beautiful as it is evocative. The genius of love himself carves the image of his beloved into stone, preserving it for eternity. An elaborate setting in the naturalistic style of the 1850s holds the shell cameo and transforms it into a brooch. But the piece of jewellery holds a little secret that reinforces the idea that it is a token of love: On the back of the cameo is a built-in locket that offers space for a lock of hair or a photograph of a loved one. The highlight of the piece: the locket and cameo are set in a so-called “swiwel mount,” allowing both images to be rotated within the setting along a vertical axis. This way, either the contents of the locket or the cameo can be displayed in the brooch. The setting itself is designed to resemble branches and is made of “Pinchbeck,” a brass alloy that has been used in England since the 18th century as a decorative substitute for gold. This lovingly crafted piece of jewellery came to us from London.

Estimate:$1,092.56

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