Funny Novelty Brooch with Mabé Pearls, Turquoises & Diamonds, Paris c. 1955

Figurative, colorful, flamboyant - that sums up post-war jewelry fashion in a nutshell. As was the case at the end of the 19th century, unusual motifs were not only intended to decorate, but also to be a talking point. Back then, people spoke of "novelty jewelry": small marvels that enriched fashion with imagination and wit - sparkling butterflies in updos, golden fox pins for hunting parties or even diamond-studded bicycles as brooches. In the 1950s, this idea experienced a glamorous revival: Conversation Pieces adorned coats and cocktail dresses and now surprised with even more imaginative motifs. In contrast to the 19th century, the shapes were now more generous, the volumes more powerful and the color palette more colorful. Colored gemstones of all kinds were very popular, often combined with sparkling diamonds. But yellow gold always set the tone, warm, radiant and a reflection of the optimism and upswing of this era. This brooch, created in Paris around 1955, is an impressive example of this fashion. It depicts a seated figure, presumably an Indian swami, i.e. a spiritual teacher, "master of himself" and symbol of calm and serenity. And this swami is taking it easy: He sits there peacefully and smokes his water pipe, a narghile. His head is a large Mabé cultured pearl, his eyes shine like diamonds and another diamond sparkles on his golden turban. Persian turquoises form his robe, while two more Mabé cultured pearls hint at his bloomers. A finely twirled golden moustache completes his charming character. Thanks to two strong pins, the brooch can also be worn securely on a coat lapel. It combines everything that made the jewellery of its time so appealing: unusual motifs, bright materials and a good dose of humor. And it is still ready to reappear today as a brilliant conversation piece.

Estimate:$5,600.22

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