Exquisite Safety Pin with an Oriental Pearl, Diamonds & Rubies, c. 1910

In this age of minimalism, the idea that beauty and utility are not mutually exclusive seems to have been forgotten at times—beauty is all too quickly dismissed as impractical and frivolous. Around the turn of the century, however, the idea of consciously designing every detail with aesthetics in mind was a way of life: First Aestheticism, then Art Nouveau, had widely popularized this philosophy. Cultivating beauty and good taste was seen as an expression of a refined, modern spirit. Here, even the most utilitarian of all pieces of jewellery—the safety pin—is graced with a delicate and exquisite design. Unusually clear diamond roses, shimmering like water, have been combined with precisely cut rubies to form a radiant band. The long, narrow pin widens at one end to showcase a flower made of an Oriental pearl and old-cut diamonds above a double leaf ornament. The pearl has a wonderful luster that stands out clearly and reflectively against the brilliance of the diamonds. Elaborate engravings enliven the side view. This type of brooch, which appears to be weighted at only one end, is also known in the English-speaking world as a “wand brooch” due to its appearance. The elegant ladies of the early 20th century wore pins of this type to secure the rich lace fabrics at their décolletage or to hold a sautoir necklace in place. See, for example, the portrait photograph of an unknown lady at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, Inv. No. RP-F-F21692. The brooch bears no hallmarks but was likely made in Germany. It is in wonderful condition.

Estimate:$2,998.97

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