Exquisite Brooch With Old European Cut Diamonds in Platinum, Probably

Jewellery from the USA, created in the early 20th century, is known for its detailed aesthetics. Filigree breaks up the often simple basic shapes of the brooches, bracelets and pendants; diamonds are set in ornamental arrangements in between. Milgrain details along the fine wires lend additional structure. Thus, the pieces often look like lace woven from precious metal. Enclosed we reproduce for comparison an advertisement of the jeweler Daniel Low & Co. of Salem from 1917, which shows further designs in this typical American style (see illustration). The present brooch is also such a piece of jewellery, being worked in platinum. A total of 45 old European cut diamonds of about 1.55 ct together occupy the surface and are set as highlights in the lace-like composition. A large old European cut diamond of about 0.30 ct shines in the center. The pin is made of white gold and has a safety clasp so that the brooch can be worn without worry. The dating of the brooch can be narrowed down not only by its design and the diamond cuts, but also by the precious metals used. Since the pin of the brooch is made of white gold, the piece cannot have been created earlier than the late 1910s, because it was not until 1918 that the American David Belais registered the patent for white gold - preceded only by the German Karl Richter in 1913. After World War II, however, platinum was hardly ever used for solid pieces in the USA or elsewhere, because it was a material important to the war effort. We therefore date the piece to the early 1920s. The brooch is very well preserved and a wonderful example of the fine, ethereal style of the early 20th century.

Estimate:$3,587.29

View all items fromHofer AntikschmuckorJewelry & Gems