Elegant Ring with Diamonds in Platinum on Gold, c. 1920

Jewellery fashions underwent a fundamental change in Western countries at the beginning of the 20th century: People sought new, modern forms and designs; overall, the jewellery was meant to appear light as a feather, ethereal, and yet luxurious. Platinum surfaces allowed for the finest pierced details; diamonds were set in ornamental arrangements within them. Milgrains along the delicate bars added texture without drawing attention to the metal itself. As a result, the pieces often appear as if they were made entirely of diamonds. But what happened to the older pieces, perceived as old-fashioned, during this fundamental shift in jewellery fashions? They were often melted down, and the precious gemstones were set into new, modern pieces of jewellery. A 1917 catalog by the Salem jeweller Daniel Low, for example, promotes this practice, which was both sustainable and cost-effective (see last illustration). This also explains why the larger diamonds in the ring feature late 19th-century cuts, while the design of the goldsmith’s work is very much in keeping with the 1920s. The large diamond in the center—undoubtedly taken from an heirloom—is a round old European cut diamond, the so-called “Old European Cut” from the years just before 1900, and has a delicate yellow hue reminiscent of lemon sorbet. It weighs approximately 0.95 carats and has only minor natural inclusions. A shadow line is set around its simple bezel setting, making the large stone appear even more impressive. In each direction, another small diamond of the old-cut type is set, and the surface of the ring face is encrusted with many more small diamonds. In total, approximately 1.75 ct of diamonds in various cuts are set into the ring. This precious ring is in wonderful condition. More than just a decorative piece, it is also an outstanding example of how changing fashions in jewellery were visibly reflected in design and how earlier generations made use of the resources available to them.

Estimate:$3,919.12

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