Elegant "Retro" Brooch with Tourmalines & Diamonds in Gold, Zwickau 1941

This brooch is an elegant piece of jewellery from a period not typically associated with jewellery making in Germany. The original receipt that has been preserved for this brooch reveals that it was crafted in December 1941 in Otto Wege’s workshop in Zwickau, Saxony. The brooch takes the form of an elongated oval of polished yellow gold that encloses a slightly raised central section. Here, a group of four green tourmalines sparkles, arranged in a continuous band and flanked by small octagonal diamonds. The tourmalines are cut in a step cut. Their parallel facets emphasize the geometric structure of the design while beautifully highlighting the deep green of the stones. The interplay of forms is particularly captivating. The softly curved contour of the brooch contrasts with the strict geometry of the cut tourmalines, while the small diamonds create bright points of light between the rich green of the gemstones and the warm luster of the yellow gold. This combination of sculptural goldwork, geometric order, and bold colors is characteristic of the late Art Deco period, which is also known as “Retro Style” in the English-speaking world. The original invoice for the brooch shows that the tourmalines must have been a particularly precious item in December 1941. The customer provided the gold needed to craft the brooch herself; it was taken from a bracelet. The price of the finished brooch exceeded the value of the gold by more than tenfold.

Estimate:$1,669.18

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