Elegant Brooch with Diamonds & Sapphires in Silver on Gold, c. 1910

Shortly after 1900, jewelry design achieved an extraordinary lightness and elegance. The flowing forms of Art Nouveau blended with a new preference for delicately openwork settings that made the gemstones appear almost weightless. At the same time, designers often continued to rely on the tried-and-true combination of silver and gold. While the gold lent the piece of jewellery stability, the silver brought out the sparkle of the diamonds to particular effect. This elegant brooch harmoniously combines all these characteristics. Its elongated, symmetrical shape is defined by three deep-blue sapphires that immediately draw the viewer’s eye. The larger center stone forms the focal point of the composition, while two sapphires of equal size in the almond-shaped side sections echo the motif and ensure a balanced overall appearance. The sapphires are surrounded by numerous octagonal- and rose cut diamonds, whose vibrant sparkle creates a charming contrast to the velvety blue of the gemstones. The delicate milgrains on the settings are particularly refined. The tiny pearl-edged borders lend the contours additional depth and attest to the extraordinary precision of the goldsmith’s craftsmanship. Delicate, fan-shaped openwork in the center lightens the design and lends the brooch an almost filigree-like transparency. With its clear symmetry, velvety sapphires, and subtle interplay of light and shadow, the brooch exemplifies the sense of beauty and artisanal perfection that continue to make early 20th-century jewellery so coveted to this day. The brooch came to us from East Westphalia.

Estimate:$2,209

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