Elegant Belle Époque Pendant with Diamonds in Platinum, c. 1910

Belle Époque jewelry sought not the impact of heavy materials, but rather the illusion of lightness. C. 1900, platinum opened up new possibilities for goldsmiths in this regard: thanks to its great strength, this precious metal could be fashioned into the finest bars, settings, and ornaments. Diamonds could now be arranged to appear to float freely in space, while the supporting structure virtually vanished from view. The pendant presented here impressively demonstrates this artistry. The large oval consists of intertwined, Gothic-inspired bands and stylized foliage. Six larger old-cut diamonds create striking points of light within it. Their circular settings lend the design a clear rhythm that already foreshadows the geometric formal language of the upcoming Art Deco movement. The interior of the pendant reveals a particular sophistication: from its upper edge, a dynamically arranged row of smaller old-cut diamonds cascades down into the open space. At its end, a larger solitaire swings freely in a circular setting. Clearly set apart from the metal and ornamentation, it appears to float at the center of the oval. With every movement, the sequence of stones gently oscillates, bringing the pendant to life with a shifting interplay of light and reflections. In total, the piece features approximately 1.14 carats of diamonds. The front is made of platinum, whose cool luster accentuates the white fire of the stones; a base of high-karat gold provides stability to the delicate construction. The original platinum chain has also been preserved. With the help of two additional box clasps, its length can be adjusted—a detail that is as practical as it is luxurious. We discovered this very good piece of jewellery in Schleswig-Holstein.

Estimate:$4,782.74

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