Elegant Belle Époque Necklace with Natural Pearls and Diamonds, c. 1910

In the years leading up to 1890, there was a veritable revolution in the world of jewellery: high-end evening jewellery began to shine in all white. Whereas people had previously worn all sorts of different gemstones or even solid gold jewellery, diamonds were now the only choice. White diamonds and pearls sparkled in settings of silver, and later in platinum and white gold. The designs were delicate, their elegant forms inspired by the neo-classical world of Marie Antoinette. Leaves, tendrils, and ribbon bows dominated the design, coming together to form creations in the so-called “garland style.” The necklace presented here is a wonderful example of this fashion. Suspended from a delicate platinum chain is a wide, airily designed showpiece, crafted as a series of sparkling garlands made of diamond-set laurel leaves. Small diamond blossoms hold the garlands in place and also feature movably mounted, alternating larger old-cut diamonds and silvery-shimmering natural pearls. What makes this necklace special is its exceptionally fine craftsmanship. Around 1890, jewelers in Paris—particularly houses like Cartier—began regularly using platinum in jewelry making. This metal, which had been rarely used until then due to the difficulty of working with it, made it possible to create finer bars and stone settings than ever before. As a result, diamonds could be set even more delicately—and it is precisely this finesse that distinguishes this necklace. Notice how delicately the upper bar between the diamond blossoms is crafted: it’s barely visible, yet it holds all the elements securely in place. The diamond settings, too, are of extraordinary delicacy. In total, the necklace features approximately 7.90 ct of diamonds; the five largest stones alone each weigh at least half a carat. The natural pearls possess a wonderfully silky luster, and the necklace is also in excellent condition. A truly recommendable, first-class piece of jewellery. It has been preserved in a vintage case from the Munich court goldsmith Karl Rothmüller; it may have been sold there in the 1950s.

Estimate:$32,242.6

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