Delicate Necklace with Diamonds & Emeralds in Platinum, circa 1915

Shortly before WWI, jewellery fashion in Germany changed and evolved once again. White platinum and rich diamond settings remained; however, the most modern designs were already moving them away from the playful bows, garlands and Art Nouveau lines to abstract designs that were often filled within their clear silhouettes with rich, imaginative creations of platinum bars and seemingly free-floating diamonds (see last illustration). A piece of jewellery from this period is the necklace presented here. Built on the seemingly simple basic shape of the circle, which came into fashion around 1909 as a "plaque" pendant, it is a jewel of almost fairy-tale fantastic appeal. A triangular motif with indented legs runs through the circle, in the center of which an old-cut diamond sparkles. The finest platinum filigree fills each of the shapes. In between, small diamonds and calibrated-cut emeralds glitter as accents. A single, teardrop-shaped old-cut diamond finishes off the design at the bottom. The permanently mounted pendant is made entirely of platinum, as is the delicate Figaro pattern chain - the most expensive option around 1915, but also the most modern. The piece of jewelry is very well preserved. We could discover it in Miami, but it was possibly created in Europe, maybe even Germany; a lot of jewellery was exported to the USA in that period.

Estimate:$6,666.85

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