Delicate Belle Époque Pendant with Diamonds in Platinum, c. 1915

In the years shortly after 1900, European jewellery craftsmanship reached a level of refinement and elegance that still amazes us today. Never before—and never since—did even small workshops outside the major centers achieve such technical and artistic mastery as they did on the eve of World War I. Fashion was international in those years, as was the love of luxury. This platinum pendant set with sparkling diamonds exemplifies the level of refinement demanded by the fashion of the time. Approximately 1.25 ct of diamonds are arranged in a symmetrical design that derives its charm from the juxtaposition of clean lines and a seemingly random, almost playful “laisser-faire” style. The design consists of two halves that form a frame for a half-carat diamond suspended in the center. The upper half is fixed in place. A dense row of small diamond roses forms the framework, with delicate platinum bars and another row of diamonds arranged concentrically around the center. Toward the bottom, however, the rows of diamonds continue, not as fixed bars but as a movable chain: each diamond rose is individually set in platinum and connected to the next in a movable manner. This creates flowing garlands that serve as a counterpoint to the strict symmetry above. Another, smaller diamond is attached to the design at the bottom, continuing the emphasis on the central axis. We discovered this pendant with its white gold chain here in Berlin. It is in very good condition. Thanks to its intricate craftsmanship, featuring numerous movable joints, it is very comfortable to wear. We date it to around 1915.

Estimate:$3,346.41

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