Convertible Antique Pendant-Brooch with 3.27 ct Old-Cut Diamonds, c. 1890

One of the most popular jewellery motifs of the 19th century was the diamond-set star. Empress Elisabeth of Austria, in particular, had made diamond stars fashionable at the Viennese court as brooches and hair ornaments. Probably the best-known portrait of Empress Sisi, painted by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, shows her with a multitude of sparkling stars in her flowing dark hair, crafted by the Viennese court jeweler A.E. Köchert. Like Sisi’s Köchert stars, this star captivates at first glance with its unusual “sunburst” shape and exquisite craftsmanship. A fold-away loop and a detachable brooch clasp make this piece of jewellery versatile, allowing it to be worn as both a pendant and a brooch. The dazzling brilliance of the 91 old European cut diamonds set in this piece of jewellery—all in the old European cut diamond—is truly stunning. Set close together, they cover every available space on this sparkling piece of jewellery, which is constructed in three tiers, with a large Old European Cut diamond weighing approximately 0.75 carats at its center. In total, approximately 3.27 carats of diamonds of beautiful quality have been incorporated. All the stones are set using the “silver on gold” technique, which was particularly common in late Victorian England; in this method, a silver front is set over a gold base. Before platinum found its way into goldsmiths’ workshops and white gold was invented, silver was considered the preferred metal for setting diamonds. The craftsmanship, design, and comparable pieces allow us to date this unusual star, with its many curved rays, to around 1890. An exquisite gem that found its way to us here in Berlin.

Estimate:$7,781.71

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