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Barnebys HQ
Brahegatan 10
BOX 5038
114 37 Stockholm
All auctions / Jewelry & Gems / Belle Époque Platinum Ring with 1.30 ct Old European Cut Solitaire
This ring is doubly precious. Firstly, because of the fine materials it is made of: its center is occupied by a large, bright and white old-cut diamond. The stone of around 1.30 ct is oval cut, fine white (top Wesselton, G) and very pure (vsi). It is surrounded by natural emeralds and other diamonds and the stones are set in precious platinum. However, it is not just the materials that are precious and clever, but also the craftsmanship and design. A closer look reveals how much the jewelry designers of the last century loved to play with shapes and precious materials. The oval shape of the large diamond in the center is transformed into an octagon by the ring of velvety green emeralds. Each of the green gemstones is specially cut into the setting to create the impression of a continuous band. A second frame of further, smaller diamonds, each one of them round, is again placed around the emeralds in an octagon shape. The composition is laid very flat over the finger, making it very comfortable to wear. The idea of highlighting a solitaire with a frame of precisely cut colored gemstones came into fashion in the years shortly before the First World War. "Among the latest rings are those whose top is composed of a round-cut solitaire surrounded by a circle of small diamonds, each of which is framed by a line of tiny emeralds; [...] the platinum hoop is very thin," read the Deutsche Goldschmiedezeitung 3 (1913) p. 18 in 1913. A glance at contemporary jewellers' catalogs confirms this: The illustrated page from the catalog of the Todt company from Pforzheim shows a very similar ring under no. 607, among others, albeit here with rubies instead of emeralds. All rings were available in platinum on gold, all gold or all platinum, known as "platina" in the parlance of the time. This ring is also made entirely of platinum, which was the most precious setting at a time when platinum was far more expensive than gold. This is another reason to value this ring particularly highly. An independent appraisal has confirmed the quality of the materials and is included with the ring. On the fashion for precisely cut, i.e. calibrated, colored stones, see also David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 281ff.
Estimate:$12,133.82
Sold for:-
View all items fromHofer AntikschmuckorJewelry & Gems
Hammer price:
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Estimate:
$12,133.82
OCT 27 | 4:00 PM
OCT 23 | 8:00 AM
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