Beautiful Domed Ring With Diamonds in Silver & Gold, c. 1930

While two-dimensional designs were still favoured in the 1920s, jewellery from around 1930 onwards was once again allowed to become more sculptural. The head of the present dome ring arches boldly towards the viewer, presenting an old European cut diamond of approximately 0.35 ct. Fine saw work divides the ring head into abstract shapes, each set with smaller rose cut diamonds. The result is a luxurious jewel that evokes the spirit of Art Deco – perfect not only for the cocktail hour. This ring represents one of the final pieces from a time when diamonds were still cut by hand in the so-called old European cut – the precursor to today’s brilliant cut. Over the course of the 19th century, diamond cutting gradually approached the shape we now know as the brilliant. It was not until 1919, however, that Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the ideal proportions for the modern brilliant based on optical and physical principles. The precise cut which is standard in Germany today – known as the Feinschliff der Praxis – was only formally defined in 1938. The modern brilliant cut gained widespread acceptance after the war. Today, old cuts are highly sought after for their distinctive lustre, which differs noticeably from that of modern brilliants: each stone is unique. The head of the ring is crafted in silver, while the shank is made of yellow gold. The silver enhances the brilliance and sparkle of the diamonds with its cool tone. Silver was already used in the Rococo period for the same reason: its patina makes the diamonds appear even brighter and whiter.

Estimate:$1,785.5

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