Antique Ring with Five Old-Cut Diamonds, c. 1900

In the 1870s, a new method of setting gemstones emerged in Great Britain. It was originally called “gypsy setting” (now usually referred to as “flush mount setting”) and was characterized by the fact that it required no prongs or bezels. Instead, the stones were recessed so that they lay flush with the gold. Since the resulting setting could not catch on anything, it was particularly comfortable to wear and quickly became all the rage. The ring shown here is an example of this style. The band, which widens toward the top and is crafted from warm, lustrous yellow gold, features five sparkling old-cut diamonds. Their cut—the standard diamond cut at the turn of the century—gave the stones a bit more individuality and was guided more by the natural shape of the raw crystal than the modern brilliant cut. The five diamonds weigh a total of approximately 0.70 ct and are of good quality. Their colour is slightly tinted and appears pleasantly warm white. Their brilliance is somewhat softer than that of modern stones. We discovered the ring in London, where it was likely also crafted.

Estimate:$1,560.91

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