Antique Necklace Made of Mediterranean Coral with a Gold Fides Clasp, c. 1890

This long necklace is made of hand-polished Mediterranean coral beads, which are arranged in a gentle graduated pattern and become slightly thicker toward the center. Each of the slightly flattened beads displays a uniform, warm salmon hue, typical of so-called Sciacca corals, which were recovered off the southern coast of Sicily beginning in the 1870s. Unlike freshly harvested Mediterranean coral, Sciacca coral does not come from living colonies but from very old coral reefs that have naturally died and accumulated on the seabed over many centuries. A characteristic feature is its play of colours, ranging from delicate shades of salmon and peach to vibrant orange—distinguishing it from the deep red of freshly harvested coral. The discovery of these deposits sparked a veritable coral craze in the late 19th century and led to immense production of coral jewelry, particularly in the workshops of the port city of Torre del Greco in the Bay of Naples. By the early 20th century, however, the Sciacca coral deposits had been completely depleted, so that today it can only be found in antique pieces of jewellery. Particularly beautiful is the original 14-karat gold clasp that securely fastens the approximately 91 cm long necklace around the neck. It features two interlocked hands—a motif that has run through the history of jewellery for millennia. This is known as “mani in fede” (roughly: “hands in trust”). Pieces of jewellery featuring this motif have been a symbol of love and sincere friendship since classical antiquity. Several examples of such pieces featuring the hand motif have been preserved in major museums of decorative arts. The Victoria & Albert Museum in London, for instance, houses a remarkable collection that is definitely worth seeing if you have the chance! We date this necklace to the last decade of the 19th century.

Estimate:$997.21

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