Antique Curb Link Bracelet with Demantoids & Diamonds in Gold, c. 1985 & later

In the final decades of the 19th century, yellow gold bracelets were popular and were often worn in multiples at the same time. This particular piece, which came to us from the Rhineland, also dates from that era. The bracelet is made of 14-karat, slightly reddish gold, the surface of which has been further refined with a fine gold plating. This gives it a wonderfully buttery luster reminiscent of the sparkle of antique gold coins. This solidly crafted piece of jewellery features a classic round curb pattern that graduates in prominence toward the center. Here, the links widen into a hammered front face adorned with five precious gemstones: two green demantoids and three sparkling white old-cut diamonds. The gemstones are set in crown-shaped prong settings that rise from the wide links of the centerpiece. Viewed from the front, the settings are as unobtrusive as possible, allowing the gemstones’ colors to take center stage. Demantoids belong to the garnet group and are considered the most precious of all garnets. The dispersion of the demantoid—that is, the splitting of light into colored reflections—is even higher than that of a diamond. As a result, the gemstone displays an exceptionally vivid play of colours, which is what gave it its name: “demantoid” means “diamond-like.” Demantoids became known in the late 19th century due to their deposits in the Russian Urals. The stones, newly discovered at the time, were crafted by jewelers such as Fabergé. High-quality demantoids remain extremely rare to this day, as the crystals usually remain small and only a few stones exhibit good colour and transparency. We had the two demantoids set into the bracelet. The stones come from the old inventory of a Berlin goldsmith and were likely found in Namibia.

Estimate:$4,812.22

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