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Exceptional pair of ruby and diamond pendent ear clips, bulgari

About the item

Each suspending on an oval ruby weighing approximately 7.80 and 7.10 carats respectively, surrounded by pear-and marquise-shaped diamonds, surmounted by oval, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds; the diamonds altogether weighing approximately 19.00 carats, mounted in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold, signed.\nAccompanied by SSEF and Gübelin reports numbered 78163 and 15027005/ 1 and 2, dated 30 January and 1 March 2015, stating that the rubies weighing approximately 7.80 and 7.10 carats are natural, of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating. Further accompanied by a SSEF appendix letter, stating that 'the small inclusions found by microscopic inspection are the hallmarks of rubies from the classical ruby mines in the Mogok valley in Burma (Myanmar)...their attractive vivid colour is due to a combination of well-balanced trace elements in these gemstones, characteristic for the finest rubies from Mogok. Assembling a matching pair of natural rubies from Burma of this size and quality is very rare and exceptional and thus this pair of rubies can be considered a true treasure of nature.' Also accompanied by SSEF Premium Appendix folio.\nThe Gübelin Appendix also states that 'a matched pair of Burmese rubies of this size, and possessing such a combination of characteristics is rare.'\n\nA Century of Italian Splendor\n\nWhen the Rome-based jewellery House Bulgari first made its appearance in Via dei Condotti in 1905, his founder Sortirio Bulgari was specialist in engravings of precious silver object who just started to deal in gemstones and jewels. In the subsequent decades, S. Bulgari successfully shifted its focus to high jewellery, consolidating international fame thanks to a devoted and prestigious clientele; yet nobody can argue that the House’s most defining moments came in the fifties and sixties, when Bulgari’s distinctive style, unique aesthetics and fine craftsmanship earned itself a reputation among the master jewellers in the world. Exquisite jewels created during this post-war era marked some of the House’s most glamourous panache and pioneer spirit that are still evident in their contemporary designs.\n\nThe economic boom after the war signified a return of jewellery set lavishly with precious gemstones, and above all, with diamonds. This general monochromatic trend continued well into the fifties, however, motifs and lines are more sinuous and soft as compared to the Art Deco era; three-dimensional design of furled ribbons was also a typical trait at that time. Some of the magnificent necklaces created by Bulgari during this time also reflected this vogue, often punctuated by large diamonds, with an arrangement that demonstrated purity of form and a certain compactness that was unprecedented (Lot 1768).\n\nOther emerging characteristics that would eventually become Bulgari signature style were the use of colours and cabochon cut precious stones, both of which harked back to elements from Renaissance. There was a visible predilection for rounded shapes and distinguished chromatic palettes in all designs, granting each piece voluminous grandeur and visual impact that was easily recognisable as Bulgari’s creations (Lot 1765).\n\nWe could be reminded of Bulgari’s prominence during the sixties and seventies from its illustrious list of patrons. It was a time when stars and divas such as Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida and Ingrid Bergman could be seen wearing their splendid Bulgari jewellery in films, a time when Bulgari was not afraid to play up importance of colourful gemstones which had then become their specialty, and a time when stones were selected not only for its alluring colour, but also their impressive sizes and fine quality.\n\nNo one would deny that Bulgari has always been a true maestro of colours. Gemstones in their myriad hues are experimented with, accentuated, juxtaposed; adding clean lines, smooth contours and their sense for antiquity to the mix, and they all crystallise in a unique design vocabulary that never conforms with jewellery standards of a particular era. The pair of opulent ruby and diamond earrings to be offered (Lot 1767), set with two stunningly matching Burmese Mogok rubies, stands as a perfect testament to the Italian master’s sublime artistry, as well as an epitome of Bulgari’s exclusive magnetism and eminent style.


Please note that the Gübelin report is dated 1 March 2015 and not as stated in the printed catalogue.




Colour and Clarity: According to Gübelin, SSEF and GRS reports, both rubies are natural, of Burmese (Mogok) origin, with no indications of heating. Separate SSEF letter states that these two rubies "form a highly matching pair in quality and remarkable size.......exhibit a vivid and attractive red colour combined with an outstanding purity". GRS Platinum Award also concludes, "Very rare pair of Burmese rubies with large size (total 14.86 cts), large face-up appearance, rare color variety ("pigeon's blood"), and spared of thermal enhancement. Mogok rubies of this quality are rarities." Please refer to the reports and their separate letters for more details. In our opinion, the rubies are matching, of strong red colour and clean to naked eyes. Upon 10x loupe, there are natural crystal and fingerprint inclusions, with one to two minor surface fissure lines close to table side, very common in natural Burma rubies and not noticeable to naked eyes. Quite a few diamonds in the surmounts weigh over a carat size each. In our opinion, these diamonds are about E to G colours, VS clarity. Both earclips are signed Condition: Vintage earclip mounts, with signs of wear to the metal, otherwise in very good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation. In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.


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